Great things come for those who wait: Anteprima Sagrantino 2011

Sagrantino, the red muscle wine of Umbria, the "king of tannins" had its days of glory this week, during Anteprima Sagrantino held in Montefalco on the 23rd and 24th February 2015.
The event, organized by Consorzio Tutela Vini Montefalco (association of local producers), represented the debut of vintage 2011 to the press and operators.

Why vintage 2011 in 2015?
According to the regulation of production Sagrantino needs to be aged in barrels (and refined in bottle) for a minimun of 37 months,  that it's more than 3 years. This long aging period is necessary to tame the wild tannins typical of this grape, to turn their natural strength into elegant notes.

Vintage 2011 vs. harvest 2014
Anteprima Sagrantino also offered the opportunity to make important considerations between vintage 2011 and harvest 2014 (whose vintage will be released in 3 years).
Two very different years, characterized by very opposite seasons: hot and dry the first, cold and wet the second.
I'm sure that those who traveled to Umbria (and Italy) last Summer remember the very strange weather that we had, not the typical Mediterranean season, with peaks of heat and lack of water, but humid and less warm.

The last will be the first
An ancient proverb says: "the vine needs to suffer", meaning that, in a certain sense,  the vine needs to be stressed to produce a good wine. Between a dry and hot season and a rainy and damp one, the  first it's definitely better. Humidity is the enemy number one for the vine as it makes the perfect environment for fungus and diseases.
During Spring and Summer 2014 protecting the grapes from adversities was really difficult. All over the region and the Country, 2014 was a very demanding year in terms of agronomic management of the vineyards.
However, where this management was prudent, accurate, very scientific and - at the same time - full of passion and devotion (not only in Montefalco area, everywhere also for other varieties) - the quality of the grapes was more than satisfying.
Sagrantino is a late grape, its harvest time begins one month and even more later than the other varieties like Sangiovese, for example. A peculiar characteristic that par chance  helped this grapevine,  considering the seasonal trend.
While Spring and Summer were very rainy, October and also the beginning of November (period of ripening/harvest for Sagrantino) was warm, dry and sunny. A favourable weather for late varieties.

The table below, although quite "technical", shows that the data connected to all the important parameters are not so different between vintage 2011 and 2014, considering the very difficult year. Vintage 2014 will not have bad surprises when ready to be released. Probably even this year will lead to good balanced Sagrantino.

[Speech/slide by Oenologist Riccardo Cotarella]

The tasting room: 25 wineries 200 labels to taste
Vintage 2011 my first impressions
I tasted "randomly" some samples from the 25 wineries that took part to the event (I couldn't try all the 200 labels, sorry) and I can say that 2011 tasted really good. In particular, I was very impressed by the incredible bouquet: the blackberries and blueberries together with an intense hint of spices are perfectly balanced and very elegant.
Giving that Sagrantino is a wine that needs to stay in bottle for some months (some wines were bottled just few time ago, some other were "barrel samples") the tannins demanded some more weeks to express more elegance i.e. they will be in perfect shape for your next wine tour in Spring and Summer!

More information: Consorzio Tutela Vini Montefalco

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Umbria on my mind Vol.3...best shots from 2014

Last days of 2014, another year full of great experiences and fantastic people here in Umbria.
Since 2012 the best way to say thank you to all of you,  so kind to follow us on our social media, is to share again the shots that you, and us, liked most.

15 photographs from our Instagram profile @discoverumbria to celebrate 2014, the eternal cycle of the Seasons, this beautiful land Umbria.

This year we have other important news for those who love our town Todi and Umbria. 

Together with our partners and local businesses in town, we have set a series of hashtags to use on your Instagram (and Twitter) accounts when you are here.
These #tags will help all of us and our beautiful region to be promoted on social media and internet directly by YOU, by the people.

Please tag: #visitTodi #visitUmbria #discoverTodi #discoverUmbria

Auguri! Buon Anno!

02.07.2014 Roofs and smoking chimneys
06.03.2014 The king of the village
20.03.2014 On the road too Nocia, Sant'Anatolia di Narco
09.04.2014 Most common Umbrian home decor of the season
 14.04.2014 Playing videogames? No cutting the grass with daddy -  in Castel Ritaldi

02.05.2014 It's always a pleasure receiving invitations by new wineries
 in Bevagna
03.05.2014 On the wine road again. Unstable weather but always a beautiful drive among the vineyards
31.05.2014 Driving home, great evening light
06.06.2014 On the road again
12.06.2014 Morning drive along a new itinerary
19.08.2014 Lines
17.09.2014 Someone is sketching in Gubbio
14.10.2014 Just before the harvest. Sagrantino vines in Montefalco
19.11.2014 Quiet morning...
11.12.2014 Cold and magic Winter night in Todi

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2014 Extra virgin olive oil: "you need to make to do with what you have"

Old and high tech press in a mill close to Orvieto
2014 will be probably recorded as one of the most difficult years in extra virgin olive oil production in Umbria and Central Italy.
The humidity and the very unusual "tropical" weather, very rainy and hot, that we had during the last Summer and at the beginning of Autumn, significantly affected these precious fruits.

Thanks to its climate, windy and chilly especially in October, just before the harvest,  the gentle rolling hills, Umbria has the perfect terroir for the production of top level organic EVOOs, famous not only for its aromas and fragrance, but especially for the high quantity of antioxidants that in our extra virgin reaches the top of this very important range.

Our partner Roberta in her oil mill in Bevagna
We know that Mother Nature is not always benevolent towards her children and those who are involved in agriculture knows it very well.
Local evoo producers and consumers are aware of the fact that this year they have to "accontentarsi", that more or less it means: you need to make to do with what you have. 
Oil mills would not open 24h/7 as it usually happens, and people know that the extra virgin will cost more this year, given to the insufficient quantity.

I've recently read several articles and posts on foreigner blogs that describe the situation in shocking terms.
Of course, we also are quite sad and worried (especially the producers), but I think that we, Umbrians, have a different approach on this problem simply because we are used to bad times.

Agriculture has an ancient tradition in Umbria
Until the 50s Umbria was a very poor region and many old people remind the hard times during and just after WWII, when even food was not enough. Younger people recall the extreme cold in 1956 and 1982, where thousand Umbrian olive trees died because of the frost and ice. These two years 1956 and 1982, carved in stone here in our shared memories, were really scary.
When an olive tree dies, it needs to be re-implanted and to grow a new tree that can produce a good quantity of olives, we need to wait for about 10-12 years, but we did it. We cried, we suffered,  but we re-implanted our olive groves and, in certain areas of the region, almost completely.

2014, that affected not the trees but the quantity/quality of olives, has simply reminded us again how little we are, how much we depend on Nature.
In these weeks, visiting my partners for my guided tours, all family-run companies at their third or forth generation in olive growing, I felt the very same mood: it's just a bad year, it's hard but it can happen. Agriculture is not a perfect science, you can do the best you can, but at the end everything depends on Nature.

Probably during the next tourist season when you are in our region, maybe the bruschetta we'll offer you it would be less generous, but Umbrian extra virgin olive oil producers and their passion and love for their product are always here, ready to start again. 

***UPDATE 11th November 2014***
Our providers made the miracle, pressing only the best olives! We have secured a small quantity for our guided tours and tasting and our travelers! Our extravirgin olive oil tours are running in season 2014-15!
Join us :) 

Read my related post:

Extra Virgin Resurrection

The Food that made us: Chapter 1 olive oil 

Frantoi Aperti 2011 

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"Once you find something good, you need to take care of it. You need to let it grow".

A vineyard in Montefalco just before the harvest

"A Good Year" it is the title of a movie filmed by Ridley Scott some time ago. Basically, it is the story of a ruthless British investment broker [Russel Crowe] who inherits his uncle's chateau and vineyard in Provence, where he spent much of his childhood. Here, as he tries to renovate the estate to be sold, he discovers a new totally different  lifestyle, a new passion [wine making, of course] and a new love, changing totally his priorities and his life.

Some happy moments Season 2014
Although quite commercial and - as some critics said - "a sun-dappled romantic diversion", it is the kind of movie that simply makes you feel happy for an hour and something, a simple entertainment.

However "A Good Year" has some very nice quotes like the following:

"Once you find something good, you need to take care of it. You need to let it grow".

Some happy moments Season 2014
This post is just to celebrate this happy moment, the end of our high season and the beginning of a new season, the best moments we are happy to share to thank,  first of all,  the travelers who chose us to discover this beautiful region, our partners at the farms and wineries and all the people who trusted in us.

A very special thank goes to Diana,  so kind to host some posts on wine I had the pleasure and honor to write in her fantastic blog Browsing Italy and Kathy from the great Food Lover's Odyssey for my interview on the food and wine traditions in my home-town Todi.

My posts on wine on Browsing Italy:

My interview on Food Lover's Odyssey

Now, after a little break, we're ready for the new season, to welcome you all in 2015. In the meantime, in this upcoming Fall and Winter, I'll start blogging again trying to do my best to keep telling you how beautiful
is Umbria.


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5 reasons to travel to Umbria in August

This post has actually been inspired by a recent article published on the American website Dream of Italy. Here the author pointed out "some of the popular misconceptions about visiting the land of la dolce vita during the month of August".
Just yesterday, during one of our wine tours, my guests were so impressed by the silence and peace they could enjoy in our region, despite they were traveling in the so-called "high season".

Here my 5 reasons to travel to Umbria in August:

1. Umbria is never crowded

Montefalco at lunch-break on August 2013
One of the most popular nightmare for a traveler in search of a relaxing holiday is spending his/her vacation together with other millions of tourists, especially if they are compatriots (it seems that when we travel abroad, Italians or Americans, Danish or Finnish we all prefer getting in contact with local people than "enjoying" the company of our contryfellows...)
Umbria is never crowded. Although from Spring to early Fall more and more travelers have been discovering this hidden gem, Umbria, in this sense, is never similar to a famous hill top village in Chianti area or Amalfi coast, for example.

2. Heat? Lakes and mountains, underground caves and old churches

Enjoying "my" Martani Mountains last year
Well, as stated in Dream of Italy's post, "it depends on your definition of heat".
Yes, it's true that Umbria is far from the sea, but, in case you'd like having a break from the [possible] heat, Umbria has beautiful lakes: Trasimeno or Lago di Piediluco. For those who stay near Orvieto, highly recommended is also Lago di Bolsena located in the northern part of Lazio region, called Tuscia, close to the amazing village of Civita di Bagnoregio.
The region has stunning mountainous areas where the temperature is always at least 3-5 degrees lower than the one perceived in our towns thanks to the altitude. The most famous is definitely Norcia and Sibillini Natural Park, with its stunning Piano di Castelluccio, known for the cultivation of lentils. If Norcia could be too far, a day off on Martani Mountains located in central Umbria can be a very good option.
For lovers of art and history a visit to a monastery or to the thousand churches can be a very good idea...and don't forget the underground caves, especially in Orvieto and Narni.

3. Stunning views, gorgeous landscape

Walking in a vineyard among verdant vines

In this region Mother Nature offers her show all year round. In August you can enjoy the best of our Summer views: at the beginning of the month sunflowers, luxuriant verdant vines and olive trees already full of the little olives; at the end of the month, deep purple and golden yellow bunches of grapes ready to be harvested in September...

4. Sagra - traditional Food Festivals
Summer is the period of Sagra and August represents the peak of the season. These local food festivals take place everywhere in the region. Sagra is a great opportunity to taste local specialities and above all, to experience local way of living.

5. Ferragosto - August 15

Sagra - Food Festivals
The term Ferragosto comes from the Latin expression Feriae Augusti (Augustus' rest), which is a celebration introduced by the emperor Augustus in 18 BC. This was an addition to the other ancient Roman festivals which fell in the same month celebrating the harvest and the end of a long period of intense agricultural labor.
The Catholic Church consecrated this day to the Assumption of Virgin Mary. Today Ferragosto is a religious festivity and a National holiday.
In Umbria, a land whose rural past and tradition are still alive, Ferragosto - in its "pagan" meaning connected to the end of the works in the fields -  is a very important holiday, blessed by a huge family lunch dominated by the main dish: oca arrosto (roast goose).
If you are so lucky to be invited by your Umbrian neighbours, don't miss this great opportunity.
If like enjoying oca and you're not so fortunate, don't worry: many restaurants and agriturismo offer it in their menu on August 15. In case, don't forget to book your table some days in advance because Umbria is never crowed but...Umbrians love celebrating!

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Castel Ritaldi, fairy tales and fine wines

The hamlet of Castel Ritaldi
Even if you've spent all your entire life in this region,  there's always something new to discover in Umbria.
Last month, thanks to the invitation by the local association Castel Ritaldi Planet, I had the opportunity to live one day in this nice village, located along the panoramic road that connects Montefalco to Spoleto,

My great day at Castel Ritaldi
Like all the towns and villages in this region, Castel Ritaldi has an ancient history. "Libero Comune", independent town-state in the Middle Ages, in 1499 it was visited by Lucrezia Borgia, the famous daugher, ....yes daughter,  of Roderigo Borgia, Papa Alessandro VI, probably one of the most controversial popes in the history of the Catholic Church, famous for his cruelty and licentiousness.
At that time Lucrezia was the governor of the town of Spoleto, and her visit represented an act of loyalty towards Castel Ritaldi.

The historical connection between Lucrezia Borgia and this village is represented every year in the"Palio del Fantasma", a Medieval event taking place between July and August.

The beautiful Pieve San Gregorio, romanic building with fine bass reliefs dated A.D. 1141

In the 1600 century the village was known to be an important area for olive oil production: today there are still many olive groves and oil mills in the area whose top level EVOOs are celebrated during "Frantoio Tipico", extra virgin olive oil festival in the first week of November.

The stunning wine area facing Montefalco

Castel Ritaldi is also one of the five towns in the doc and docg wine district of Montefalco. Along with the production of the famous full bodied red wines like Montefalco Rosso and Montefalco Sagrantino, this territory is traditionally connected to an ancient white grape variety: Trebbiano Spoletino.
Here, in the country surrounding the village, I had definitely one of my best, unforgettable, exciting experience in my career of sommelier and wine tour guide: admiring an example of vineyard of Trebbiano Spoletino in the ancient way called "Vite Maritata", very old practice of cultivation  - used even by the Romans -  of training vines to grow up along living tree trunks.

A very rare example of "Vite Maritata" vineyard

More information for a visit:
Comune di Castel Ritaldi - Turismo e Cultura
Castel Ritaldi Planet - Tourist Information

Nel 1499 Castel Ritaldi vide la visita di Lucrezia Borgia, all'epoca governatrice di Spoleto che così volle sottolineare la lealtà del castello. Agli inizi del 1600 prese vigore, con la coltivazione dell'olivo, la vita agricola. - See more at: http://www.castelritaldi.eu/CategoriaMedia.aspx?idc=72&explicit=SI#sthash.wDKXgL37.dpuf
Nel 1499 Castel Ritaldi vide la visita di Lucrezia Borgia, all'epoca governatrice di Spoleto che così volle sottolineare la lealtà del castello. Agli inizi del 1600 prese vigore, con la coltivazione dell'olivo, la vita agricola. - See more at: http://www.castelritaldi.eu/CategoriaMedia.aspx?idc=72&explicit=SI#sthash.wDKXgL37.dpuf

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Spring-Summer 2014 Fab Wine-Food Festivals in Umbria

Spring has finally arrived and  - again - this year we've put together our "traditional" post about our favourite Wine and Food Festivals (please notice that all the festivals listed below were personally inspected for a strict "food quality control" to guarantee only the best to the people traveling in our Umbria, ah ah).

Of course, this is a first draft of the events.
If you have your favourite sagra or you are involved in the organization of a  festival and you like promoting it on our blog, just let us know.

Trevi is a beautiful hill-top village known for its famous extra virgin olive oil produced by the thousand olive trees around the old town.
With a traditional sportina full of delicacies, you can enjoy tasty local food under the shadow of the olive trees few metres from the old town. I personally took part to one of the first editions (proved by my photo with the sportina on the left): full story here.

A very exclusive visit in a workshop last year
Second edition for this very nice event in the historical centre of Orvieto, visited last year by more than 40.000 visitors.
20 different gelato flavours for the 20 regions of Italy, in an amazing challenge involving the best Italian Maestri Gelatieri, ice-cream artisans.

Porchettiamo is "the" festival to celebrate one of the most famous Umbrian street food: porchetta, the traditional roast pork. San Terenziano and Grutti nice villages very close to Todi, are famous in the region for this pork production. This "typical and delicious food, rich in history, both noble and popular, has always been the street, square, fair and market-food". All the porchetta producers at Porchettiamo have been carefully selected by the organizers according to quality, craftsmanship and authenticity. This year served in paring with wine and Umbrian craft beers.

The funny hat I purchased last year during Cantine Aperte "Follower of Sangiovese"

This is the most important wine event of the year , involving wine as the main protagonist together with the people who produce it and the territory where it is made. Since 1993, during the the last Sunday of May, the members of the association "Movimento Turismo del Vino" have opened their doors to the vast public establishing in this way an immediate and direct contact with all wine tourists and lovers.

Listing Mercato della Gaite as a food festival is definitely reducing. Mercato delle Gaite is the Medieval Festival par excellence. Inspired by the ancient division of Bevagna in four different quarters (gaita), the aim of the festival is recreating - paying attention to every detail - the authentic daily life of its citizens between 1250 and 1350. In Bevagna during these ten days it is possible to get into a time capsule, visiting ancient shops, experiencing medieval crafts, arts and games and tasting at night, in its piazzas and narrow streets, food and specialities prepared following original recipes from the XIII century 

Local cooks at work in Parrano (TR)
Summer is the season of Sagra, the local food festivals that take place almost in every medium-little village in the region. Listing all the sagras is not simple, although there are some interesting websites (in Italian) like umbriasagre.com  where you can find updated information on the most important ones . However, if you are renting a country-house or you're booking an hotel stay, the best way to get to know about the sagras in the vicinity is asking your host. Sagras infact are organized mainly by and  for local people and advertised only locally.

Among all the wine festivals in Umbria, Enologica Montefalco is definitely one of our favourite. Organized in the village who gives the name to the area of production of one of the most prestigious Umbrian wines Sagrantino, Enologica includes wine tasting of Montefalco doc/docg wines - tasting room located in the former monastery of Sant'Agostino in the centre of the town -  guided tours to some wineries, conferences and more: Festa della Vendemmia, grape harvest festa.

Too much food and wine?
Don't forget the other TOP Events in the region:

Steve McCurry exhibition in Perugia
30 APRIL - MAY 4 2014
100 shots on Umbria by the National Geographic Photographer Steve McCurry 

Web resources:
Please notice that some websites are not updated at the moment. Please check it later on, or contact us for more information.

Pic Nic a Trevi

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Extra Virgin Resurrection

You've probably heard about all those rumors on the real quality of [some] extra virgin olive oils produced in our Country.

Today a very nice "reply" has been posted on the social media, 15 slides to put in a good word those who work every single day to offer us a top level product: Extra Virgin Resurrection.

At the moment the slides that you can find here Extra Virgin Resurrection are only in Italian, but we are sure that the friendly graphics can help you to understand the message that is basically the following:

"In Italy more than 500 different olive trees varieties are cultivated. These ones make the taste of regional cuisine so different and so special"

"Olive growers are the sentinels of this huge heritage"

"Biodiversity [our peninsula has the highest number and density of both animal and plant species in the European Union], amazing landscapes, special food is our Great Beauty, it is our power"

"Olive growers and oil mills specialists are another important heritage: they are able to put together ancient knowledge with new technologies"

"How the consumers can be protected by frauds? More controls, but the label itself is not a warranty. The answer is very easy: making a link (it could be a QR code for example,) between the producer and the consumer [like a video that shows all the process]:  the producer put his/her on face on his/her own product"

We strongly believe in this last sentence.
In our extra virgin olive oil tours you can taste high-end top quality olive oils, visit the olive grove and the oil press and, above all, meet directly the producers, purchasing your favourite oil at the farm.
Because the Discovering Umbria staff and all our partners at the olive oil farms are happy and proud to put our faces on on such amazing products!

We all are looking forward to your visit in our Umbria! 



Sagrantino wine and a perfect food pairing

Montefalco -  piazza by night - Christmas 2013
In this blog it's not unusual ending or beginning a new year with a post on...wine!

First of all, 2014 in Umbria started with great news: the American wine magazine Wine Enthusiast has included our region among the 10 best wine travel destinations 2014, together with well known areas like Sonoma, Barossa Valley, Languedoc, just for example.
Finally an important recognition for a little, but great region whose wine producers have centered their work and efforts only in making quality, high level wines for many years.

Secondly, we'd like informing you all about our last exciting wine and food experience that we had in the last days of 2013 in the beautiful scenery of Montefalco adorned for Christmas.

Merry Sagrantino 2013
The occasion came from an invitation by Consorzio Tutela Vini Montefalco, association of wine makers of Montefalco wine area, during the event Merry Sagrantino, organized by Consorzio for the promotion of the wines and food from the area.

It's not a secret that I love wine tasting and - although I know this area and its wineries, let's say... "quite" well, these events are always an opportunity to discover new wineries, wines and to learn more, especially on wine/food pairing.

The amazing local food
Guided by a collegue sommelier, we started with a Montefalco Bianco DOC, a blend of Trebbiano Spoletino, Grechetto and Malvasia, fresh and fruity, that we paired with a tasty ciauscolo, a kind of soft salame - originally from Le Marche region - spread on a slice of unsalty Umbrian bread.
Then, we moved to a Montefalco Rosso DOC, Sagrantino's "little brother", deep ruby red with its typical aromas of cherry, red fruits and hints of spices, in paring with an organic salame. An elegant Montefalco Rosso Riserva DOC (riserva means that the wine has been aged at least one year longer than the basic one), was our third wine, that we tried with coppa, a special cured meat made by the parts of the pork not used for salame and prosciutto. All these fantastic cold cuts were offered by Gastronomia Santa Croce, Foligno.

The Fab Five
Extremely happy of this first part of the "lesson", we went on tasting a Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG 2007 in its dry version (according to the last disciplinare, rules on production, this wine needs 37 months of aging period to be released), full-bodied and dark ruby red, with its aromas of ripe blackberries and blueberries, hints of spices and pleasant tannins. Its perfect companion was a mature pecorino cheese.
All the food/wine matches went very well with this typical Umbrian food products.

Regarding wine and food pairing, infact, one of the first rule that you learn at the wine school is:  "when you are afraid of making a mistake in wine and food pairing, choose always a dish or a speciality from the region the wine comes from".
Therefore, I was really very interested in going on and trying an usual pairing I've never experienced before: Lumache di Cantalupo, specifically a snail sauce, yes, s.n.a.i.l.s, from Cantalupo.

Salsa di Lumache from Cantalupo
Cantalupo is a small village, under the municipality of Bevagna, one of the five towns in the wine district of Montefalco DOC-DOCG.
This village is a famous for its typical dishes prepared with lumache.
Each August infact there's also a sagra, a food festival, when the local people, i Cantalupesi, celebrate their very special dishes.

The warm snail sauce, like a ragù, was spread on a slice of bread, in a sort of bruschetta, and it was unbelievable. The taste of the snails is similar to the one of the sea-food, but more intense and the sauce by tomato and vegetables from the orto, house garden, simply reminded me those old flavours that only a nonna could make.

Umbrian bread with warm Salsa di Lumache
We also tried the three red wines - we had before - with the salsa di lumache and all of them were perfect. Even Sagrantino 2007 was in a very good balance, especially when the sauce was warmer and could release all its flavours.

Of course, the wine tasting ended with a Montefalco Sagrantino Passito DOCG (sweet) with its charming notes of bluberries, blackberry jam and berries in alcohol. The wine was matched with two chocolates from an artisan factory, Perugia.

Although I am not a big fan of Sagrantino Passito with chocolate (I'd rather prefer it with cookies and traditional cakes, like blackberry jam crostata) the pairing was very pleasant, especially with the first one: a white cioccolata with caramel.

Artisan Chocolate, Perugia
Consorzio Tutela Vini Montefalco organizes many events to promote the wines and typical products of its wine area all year round.
The most famous and important one is Enologica Montefalco, wine festival, taking place in the third week of September. The event includes wine tasting, guided visits, workshops and the unforgettable Festa della Vendemmia in Montefalco main piazza.
Definitely not to be missed!

And...if you are interested in discovering more on Montefalco and Umbrian wines and the secrets of wine pairing...well...take a wine tour with us!

See you soon in Umbria!

Web resources:
Consorzio Tutela Vini Montefalco
Enologica Montefalco
Lumache di Cantalupo - on line shop
Umbria among the 10 Best Wine Travel Destination 2014 on Wine Enthusiast Magazine

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